It’s an occasion in our house: the night I make dinner.
I refer to it as an occasion because it doesn’t happen very often. Once a month, maybe. (Even that might be too generous.) And when it does happen, the result is likely to be one of the following: baked macaroni and cheese, burgers, meatloaf, or quiche.
My wife and I have different philosophies when it comes to cooking. I like to stick to what I’m good at while she’s a bit more adventurous (and considers things like proper nutrition). In fact, it’s not unheard of for her to have a meal started and only then look up a recipe to account for the ingredients.
I like to poke fun at her for this (because that’s just what I do) but it’s an admirable trait, arguably. It keeps our diet mysteriously varied, adds an element of unpredictability, and makes use of our ridiculously expensive high-speed internet (or old fashioned cookbooks). There have been more hits than misses.
(Besides, how much can I criticize when I seldom bear the burden of big meals? I doubt we’d make a week without repetition, otherwise.)
Tonight, I’ll be making the aforementioned mac-and-cheese. Comfort food at its best for a cold and rainy winter’s night. And c’mon — who doesn’t love cheese carbs? (If the answer is you and you’d like for us to remain friends, it’d be better not to say it.)
It’s a recipe that I’ve been using for at least twenty years. I can’t remember where it originated or how it fell into my hands — dad, maybe — but it’s old enough to have been rewritten by my wife and then laminated for protection.
I’ve made this particular dish so often that I could probably do so without looking. But I won’t. With the exception of a few tweaks (more on these later), I’ll follow the recipe as if it was new to me. Simply because I like the consistency of knowing what’s to come.
(Have you pegged me as a creature of habit? If so, you’d be correct. But that’s its own entry, coming … some other day.)
The difficulty of the dish is in the timing. At the outset, you’ll be making a roux with butter, flour, salt, and pepper while also measuring/heating milk and chopping cheese (both to be added later), and boiling water. Stir this, nuke that, cut those. Lots of potential for error — and if you mess up the roux you’ll be starting from scratch.
Once you’ve begun to add the milk and cheese to your base mixture, the trick becomes finding a temperature that will melt the cheese without completely liquifying your sauce as you also prepare your pasta. I find that medium heat, or slightly lower, works best (it minimizes the risk of burning). You’ll want to adjust accordingly, and add cheese at consistent intervals throughout. And stir, dammit! Stir, stir, stir.
Speaking of cheese. You’re going to want to use something flavorful, like a sharp or extra sharp cheddar. Otherwise, you run the risk of achieving a taste that’s either too subtle or even — gasp! — bland. (This reminds me of the time that one of the kid’s tasted cousin ****’s macaroni and cheese dish at a family gathering and proceeded to scream: “It tastes like NOTHING!!!”)
I actually like to mix my cheeses — say, half extra sharp cheddar and half pepper jack. That way, you’re pretty much guaranteed a flavor burst. After all, the cheese is co-hosting this little culinary soiree and wants to show off.
Which brings me to the other main ingredient: macaroni. Ideally, you want a pasta that will both absorb the sauce and be easy to eat. Until just recently, I used cellentani — but I’ve come to prefer mezzi rigatoni. Not only is it robust, but easy to spear with a fork. Just trust me on this.
Your baking dish is also integral. Wide and deep, people, wide and deep. And, in addition to greasing, I would suggest coating the bottom with a bit of your cheese sauce before adding the noodles. Then, pour the remainder over the top and give everything a good stir so that your noodles are thoroughly coated.
Now this is where we discuss the liberties you might wish to take with the recipe. I prefer simplicity — diced scallions, which give a pop of color and flavor (AND satisfy the need for a vegetable, meaning you can nix the side salad) and bread crumbs to top, if I have them. (There were none in the pantry tonight so I grated a leftover cheese biscuit from Red Lobster — which is my idea of cooking dangerously!)
If you prefer to have a meat, I’d suggest bacon. I’m sure chicken or ham would be equally good, if either of those tickle your taste buds. Or picked lobster, even (delicious if it’s in the budget!). But moderation is key; you don’t want to overpower the original flavor profile. (Yup, I did just say that. Food Network here I come!)
If you’ve made it this far, the hard work is done. (Well, with the exception of waiting.) Pop your dish in the oven, set a timer, prepare your side dishes (if desired), and salivate accordingly.
A few last words of advice. Double the recipe. (Again, trust me on this.) Add extra cheese. (Yes, extra, extra cheese.) Bake for an additional six minutes.
Then … bon appetit! You might hate yourself in the morning — but it’ll be worth it.
JBV
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Baked Mac-and-Cheese
Ingredients:
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
1 cup hot skim milk
1 cup diced cheddar cheese
8 oz. macaroni
Directions:
1. In a saucepan, melt butter and stir in flour, salt, and pepper
2. Gradually stir in hot milk and cook, stirring until the sauce is thickened
3. Add cheese and stir until it is melted
4. Cook macaroni as directed on package; drain lightly
5. Grease a casserole and pour hot sauce into it; stir in cooked macaroni
6. Bake in a 350-degree F oven; makes 3 servings